Brothers in alms – Maria Laach

The announcement by a downstairs neighbour of an impending birthday celebration in her appartment was all I needed to set off in search of peace, solitude and good food.
If you too need a quiet corner to think about everything and nothing, join me on my short trip up the motorway to paradise…

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Maria Laach

I can’t confess to having ever ‘found’ religion, but if I ever did it would not be after a visit to St Peter’s, St Pauls or even (whisper it quietly in Bonn) Cologne Cathedral.  It would be in a tiny Abbey surrounded by glorious volcanic countryside  just up the A61.

The countryside

In between the Mosel Vineyards and the romantic Ahrtal sits Maria laach and its Benedictine Abbey.  The area is a visits worth in practically any weather – a glorious mix of tall beeches, Spruce and Ash trees alongside centuries old oaks.  Picturesque in Summer sunshine, dark and mysterious in Autumn, awe inspiring in thick winter snow. Take a walk around the lake’s circumference and watch for bubbling patches of water at the lakeside. Examine the basalt and pumice rock quarries created from 10.000 year old volcanic eruptions, or just enjoy the silence and stillness that for me is the most precious commodity the area has to offer.  A good mood is guaranteed for all, and even the most hardened of city dwellers will find him/herself wanting to say ‘hello’ to the friendly cows when they wander over to check-out the mornings first tourists.

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The Abbey and Monastery

Peace is indeed such a valuable commodity that many people are loathe to give it up.  The Monks at Maria Laach are an example.  One of 26 such monastries in Germany, they have their own community, complete with woodworkers and electricians.  My guide book tells me there are some 13000 Benedictine Monks worldwide and I counted some thirty or so brothers at the evening vespers before almost falling asleep to the sounds of their singing.  (this really is a place to relax).   The Abbey itself dates from 1093 and is too wonderful for words so I will just say ‘see for yourself’.  It has a good many visitors, but ultimately is still, clearly a place of work and worship (Ora et Labora!) for its Benedictine inhabitants.  Whilst  I must admit that having to stop work every four or five hours to come to prayer as the monks do would not keep the wheels of industry turning, I can’t help thinking they might be on to something.  Most of us have plenty of work to do, but how much time is left to reflect upon what we are doing?  No, I’m not fiercely religious, But Maria Laach Abbey does make me pause for thought when I don’t usually have the time (or can’t be bothered to make the time perhaps?) to do so.

Seehotel Maria laach

At under an hours drive from Bonn, Maria Laach  is easy to plan as a day out.  To really relax, or catch the 5.30 ‘Morgenhore’ (Morningsong) at the Abbey though you might want to stay overnight.  In days gone by monastries would offer a roof over your head and food for weary visitors.  They still offer these things today in fact, but  Sadly the Maria Laach Hotel is not free.  It is very comfortable though with a wonderful menu and friendly staff.  They cater for business seminars and for weary hikers with equal gusto, and whether you want top cuisine or just coffee and cake you wont be disappointed.  A tip here is to try any cake with apple in – the local apples are varied and delicious; and any dish with duck in – just try not to feel too guilty when you visit the lakeside ducks afterwards.  Diners seem to finish astonishingly early in Germany I find, and you are apt to find yourself alone in the restaurant after 9 pm.  The solution is to head for the nearest ‘Kneipe’ which, conveniently if you are already languidly relaxed with wine, is in the hotel – ‘Im Eichenkamp’.  The owner, Werner Bösch,  looks astonishingly like a good friend of mine in Portsmouth and treats me (and every other guest) as if he really was my friend.  My girlfriend remembers a business seminar that was rounded off in this very wine cellar until four in the morning – and the owner stayed awake to refill the peanut bowls throughout. Even my friend in Portsmouth would have been in bed by then I suspect.

This is very definitely a place to relax; to talk for hours about everything.  Lets invite the Iraqis and Iranis, the IRA and the British Government, George Bush and everyone else down to ‘Im Eichenkamp’ and get those problems sorted out over good wine and salted peanuts.  Let them all wake up with a clear head next morning for a walk round the lake and a prayer in the Abbey.  If world peace is possible anywhere, this is the place.

Internet: www.maria-laach.de
Hotel: www.maria-laach.de/seehotel

You can easily reach Maria Laach and its Abbey by car from Bonn.  Just take the Autobahn A61 to the turn-off ‘Mendig/Maria-Laach’  The Abbey is about 2km from the turn-off.  By public transport it is a little more difficult to get to:  A train to Andernach, followed by a bus ride is required:
Buses from Andernach (Breite Straße 98):
Monday to Friday: 07.58 – 13.18 – 17.33
Saturday: 08.33 – 12.33 – 16.33 Sunday & Holidays: 12.33 – 18.03

Please check these details are current before travelling.