Royal Weddings R Us

Well, now it’s over I think it has to be said – Britain does these things very well indeed.   I can’t judge the media presentation in the UK from here in Germany but I would guess (hope!) that the somber tones of a black and white yesteryear were replaced by something more 21st Century technicolour.   Somehow, whereas Charles seemed to cry out media-wise for the stiff upper lip commentary, William and Kate seem perfect for a ‘Twilight’ meets ‘Harry Potter’ Generation.

Both funny and sad that it’s taken the seemingly happy Marriage Ceremony of William & Kate to  reveal what now seems obvious from Chas and Di’s big day.   That official Lord Lichfield picture of the Bridesmaids & Bridegrooms – showing Charles and Diana sitting with an acre of space between them is in telling contrast to this weeks image of Kate with her hand teasingly on William’s knee.   I can’t imagine The Duke doing that when our Queen tied the Royal knot.  Throughout the ceremony William regularly gave his bride smiles of encouragement for what must have been a terrifying ordeal. Do you remember such helpful gestures from Charles? I don’t.   Likewise, I’m sure that if any brave journalist had chivvied up the nerve to ask William if this was true love he would have said ‘Yes’ and stopped there, without his fathers famous coda – ‘Whatever that means?’.

I’m certain too that Diana would have been calmed to have had a Harry like figure grinning amiably by her side at the Abbey too.  It says something that her own sons should see and understand the need for such encouragement to the Bride – the kind their mother never received.

The Ceremony itself of course was an example of British pomp at its best.   Bombastic? Yes, Over the Top? You bet.   A veritable smorgsborg (always wanted an excuse to write that – no idea what it is). Of colour. Drama too of course. You only needed to see Elton John’s windswept hair to imagine him stepping from his private helicopter. Becks looking as always like he would be happy to speak to everyone, Posh looking like she’d happily speak to no one – Becks included. Her hat having kept the milliner up all night in search of the correct material, and on the day having me riveted to the TV screen waiting to see if it would use gravity and it’s precarious 45 degree attachment as excuses to suddenly ski off of Victoria’s pretty head. I’m sure David would have got his left foot to it before it hit the ground though.

Lots of secretive banter going on between Wills and Harry in Church. Well, secret maybe isn’t the right word in front of  25 million viewers in England that must include at least a million expert lip readers. I think I saw Harry issue an “Eh up, she’s ‘ere now, straighten up and no f**ting about”

Or maybe not…

Here in Germany it was a normal working day for most everyone except Raymond at ‘The Fiddlers’ who opened his pub doors at an unheard of 10 am with lots of free food and drink (also unheard of).  Even so there were a reported 10 million television viewers and more room on the commuter trains than usual.  Americans we hear were not so fascinated – understandably,  they currently have plenty of natural disaster footage to worry about right now and lets face it we Brits are different.  When we have lots to worry about we put on a cup of tea or the telly, and escape.  We may be unemployed, but at least we aren’t wearing a hat that looks like someone has baked a giant clay key in a giant oven and glued it to our heads, so things certainly could be worse.  As the Prime Minister observed about the British – when we go for it, we really go for it.   Maybe we don’t do football well these days, or song contests.  But Royal Weddings?  Britannia rules the waves!

Popularity: 13% [?]

Currywurst Wars?

Many of us from Britain might remember the ‘Curry Wars’ of the early 70′s as restaurant after restaurant opened up to fight for the tidalwave of hungry customers emerging from pubs at closing time.  It seems as if Bonn in 2010 has a variation on the theme. The ‘Bönnsche Imbiss” has been a popular ‘address’ on the Marktplatz for 25 years, Owner Thomas Frommeyer even had a visit from Berlin Mayor Klaus Wowereit – on recommendation from Bonn Mayor Jürgen Nimptsch.  Special permission to sell on Bonn’s streets has to be applied for every five years however, and all the ‘high profile’ support together with a petition of over 1600 names was to no avail as no fewer than 17 applications came in for the highly regarded location.

Winner was Marc Oberhoff. His stall will be named ‘Engel & Teufel’ to reflect what the owner refers to as a ‘Premium Imbiss Concept’, offering not just Currywurst (Teufel) but also healthy meals with salads (Engel).   I only stopped at the ‘Bönnsche Imbiss’ on a couple of occasions, not because the currywurst was bad (it was great) but because the queues were longer than in most of the shops that the little white booth sits in front of. Seemingly what matters is what the council thinks we should have, rather than what we actually want.  The same can be said for the sausage stand outside of Kaufhof which has also been refused a new licence, apparently because the council considers it is not visually attractive to pedestrians. Personally I don’t care if it’s attractive or not. They sell an excellent ‘Krakauer’ which is bigger and cheaper than those at the Christmas Market stalls and add a bit of local colour.
Oh, and they taste great!

Also unable to renew it’s license, the ‘Thüringer Grill’ opposite Kaufhof will also close despite it’s popularity:

How about letting the people decide what they want? On second thoughts, With the announced closure of Wehmeyers near Karstadt, it may only be a matter of time until there is no City Centre shopping crowd to serve.

Popularity: 19% [?]

Summer Concerts!

To warm us up during the cold Winter the Solar World Summer Stage has announced it’s first shows for the Museumsplatz in 2011. Grammy Nominee Till Brönner (9 July) and ever popular Blackfööss (18 July) are early favourites as is comedian Kaya Yanar (6 August).

Business Manager of events Martin Nötzel promises more concerts than in the previous two years – with around 20 in the planning stage. For full details and further updates check the Museumsplatz Website

Popularity: 22% [?]

Metropol meets Thalia

This week saw the long awaited opening of the Thalia Bookshop in Bonn’s Market Square.
The road to this moment has certainly been a rocky one – ‘Save the Metropol’ posters and petitions finally came to nothing as the legal loopholes proved in the end to be decisive: Too many past renovations had left to little of the original Theatre/Cinema behind. Ultimately a case of ‘No ‘Denkmal’ = ‘No Denkmalschütz”.

The Theatre facade has remained unchanged – which is a pity since it was always rather uninspired. A cheap (and temporary looking) ‘Thalia’ sign hangs above the doors serving only to dampen the spirits as you enter the shop. Inside though it must be said is something of an eye opener. The huge lobby lights and decoration look rather ‘übergrand’ for a book shop but leave shoppers in no doubt this is a special building. There is still something of a ‘Close Encounters’ atmosphere in the main shop – the beautiful ceiling with its magnificent lighting looms large. Theatre seating on the first floor that once looked onto a giant screen now lets tired shoppers look down onto more tired shoppers entering the building below.

It’s a light and beautifully decorated shop and much as I loved the original cinema the truth is that more people have already come into the Bookshop than would have come into the cinema in a month. What does trouble me though is the ten year lease that Thalia have taken out and the temporary nature of their nameshield over the door. With the emergence in the last few weeks alone of several ‘E Book’ devices on the market, what price a bookstore can afford such an afluent address in even two years time? Yes, I’m glad that the inner facade, if not the heart of the original building, has at least in part been respected. Am I happy though? It seems to me that a theatre decked out as a shop is rather like a swan with its wings clipped. It still looks good, but it’s been physically impaired to keep it where it is. In the case of the Metropol – to keep it standing at all. That’s how I see it anyway. Go along and judge for yourself if the new building fills you with inspiration or despair.

Popularity: 23% [?]

Hotel Villa Fraulo – Building a Dream

The Amalfi coast has been a part of ‘The Grand Tour’ for young aristocrats since the 16^th Century.  Ravello, perched high up on the cliffs above the Bay has always been one of its jewels, for many years reachable only by steep, narrow, winding roads on the back of a donkey.  Despite the discomfort, many people made the journey because it’s simply a very beautiful place.  Not surprisingly, the people who live there are passionate about it too.  During a recent holiday I spoke to a local resident whose story makes fascinating reading.

„The Boss!“ says a smiling Matteo Di Lieto as he raises a muscular arm to point his thumb at a picture on the wall behind. The simple portrait is of his lawyer father, Guglielmo (William), and it hangs behind the reception desk of the gleaming new hotel ‘Villa Fraulo’.  There’s a clear family resemblance between the two men’s faces and Matteo is also a trained lawyer.  The suntanned son with sunglasses and polo shirt has the strong physique of a construction worker though, and that’s not altogether surprising, since Matteo Di Lieto, with the help of his two brothers, set about to, literally, rebuild his family’s dream.

It’s a dream that actually began before both Guglielmo and Matteo were born, with Matteo’s Grandfather, to be precise.  Pantaleone Fraulo was a successful lemon merchant, and as anyone who has tasted famous Amalfi Coast specialities like Limoncello will tell you, lemons were, and still are, a local speciality with a worldwide market.   Certainly the market was excellent around 1900 because that’s when Pantaleone bought an antique landhouse overlooking the coast with a wonderful view down to the nearby town of Minori and where, on a clear day (which is most days) you can make out the flickering lights of Salerno.  The original property, which dated back to the 13^th Century, was for many years the family home.  It was requisitioned for use by Allied Officers in 1943 and later opened as a six room hotel by Pantaleone’s children – which is how it remained until 1972.  At this point the family lost ownership of the building, but not the dream.

Guglielmo Di Lieto’s wife Angela, from the Fraulo family, strove to persuade her husband to buy the property back from the conglomerate that now possessed her family home. “My mother was very determined” remembers Matteo when we speak in the restaurant.  Finally, out of love for his wife, Guglielmo bought the property back as she wished. In 2005 his sons determined to continue the dream, and in spectacular fashion – by turning the property into a 27 room luxury hotel.  But then red tape threatened to tie them all in knots.  “We were told by one of the respective Authorities that all the restoration and rebuilding work must be finished by 2008 and I could see that was not possible”, recalled Matteo.

His reaction however was not one of resignation.  Taking the saying ”If you want a job done well, do it yourself’ to his heart he did just that.  He hired a renegade crew of ten men – ‘Apaches’ as he fondly labels them now – and set about building the hotel himself.  It was hard, gruelling labour. “At one point”, he remembers, “I was drilling into a concrete wall when suddenly, whoom! – all the lights went out.  I pulled a little more concrete away and discovered I was inches away from a main power supply line. ” It appeared that the Big Boss, God himself, was behind the project.  That was probably just as well, since a long and tortuous time lay ahead of 16 hour working days and endless hours spent obtaining all the necessary documents and permits.  It was a time of camaraderie, too. Matteo recalls a particularly stormy day when he and his ‘Apaches’ literally linked arms, forming a human chain to prevent scaffolding from being blown over.

Now here we were in October 2010, sitting in the beautiful Restaurant of Villa Fraulo with its cross vaulted ceiling and polished white marble floor. Matteo turns to the restored Art Nouveau fireplace and points to a rough area in the ancient, cross-vaulted ceiling.  “This happened before we took over the re-building” he says.  “The builders had just knocked holes”.  So the ‘ten Apaches’ took over the renovations.   A lot of things were lost or damaged over the years but inspiration came from Matteo’s mother who arranged the design and furnishings. Her remarkable vision and attention to detail are evident throughout the Hotel.  In place of overwhelming opulence there is an elegant and serene atmosphere, a sense of space and, most importantly, of light.  Any visitor to the Amalfi Coast will tell you of the remarkable vibrancy of light and colour that this beautiful section of coastline has, and clearly Matteo’s mother has concentrated on giving it centre stage.

You would expect that, now Villa Fraulo has opened its lofty iron gates for business again, Matteo Di Lieto would be back in his Lawyers office.  However, stay at Villa Fraulo and go down to breakfast at 9am and you’ll find him working on the computer at the reception desk. Take a meal at the restaurant at 9 pm and you’ll likely see him checking all is running smoothly in the newly opened restaurant.  In between he will be showing prospective guests the stunning coastal view from the Hotel Terrace – everything done with a seemingly boundless enthusiasm.  His usual attire is polo shirt and shorts.  Here he and his mother were in some disagreement he admits, but for Matteo the slightly less formal approach is in keeping with his belief that in an elegant ambience you also need a bit of this relaxed style to make you feel comfortable.

Matteo concludes by telling me of plans for refurbishing a Hotel in his hometown of Minori.  His infectious enthusiasm leads me to be pretty sure that his lawyer’s office is likely to be gathering dust well into the foreseeable future.  And what of that other lawyer, Guglielmo Di Lieto, who bought his wife the family home she so wanted back and who smiles down from the Reception desk portrait?  Matteo’s father sadly died before the Hotel was completed.  “The real Boss” as Matteo calls him would have been proud.

In October 2010, seven months after it opened, Hotel Villa Fraulo was awarded the Certificate of Excellence by tripadvisor for the year 2010, with 4.5 out of 5 points.

www.villafraulo.com

Popularity: 25% [?]

Bonn’s Swinging Sixties

I’m a big fan of Bonn’s oldest surviving pop band Sunny Skies, so when founder of the ‘Skies’ Rope Schmitz told me there were other musicians from Bonn’s pop past performing again I was intrigued.  The evening has been organized by Bea Tradt who sung alongside Rope (Rolf-Peter) in the original Sunny Skies and will feature many of the musical heroes from Bonn’s past (someone calculated their ages would total almost a thousand years of Bonn Rock History, which I think is thinking a little bit TOO hard!)

There will be reminiscing about the past and a small sixties market too (although I guess my chances of buying one of those ‘Beatles Wig in a box’ that I saw as a youngster, but without sufficient pocket money, has gone forever).

Should be an interesting and fun evening so dust off your drainpipes, oil your hula hoop and head for Endenich!

SIXTIES UNITED LINK

And to get you in the mood for a swinging sixties evening here is a fascinating and fun homage to Bonn in the Mods and Rockers days:
THE BONN-BEAT WEBSITE LINK

Popularity: 26% [?]

Law returns to Bonn

Small time Medieval criminals in Britain were often locked into stocks and pillories in town squares for public ridicule. Germany also made its contribution to making a rogues life uncomfortable however – The Pranger. Bonn was no exception, and it took a hefty collision with a lorry to finally end its days outside the Münsterbasilika. Until recently that is.  Another in our series looking at famous and not-so-famous Bonn landmarks.

26 July 2005 in Bonn was a day on which the spirits of many a long dead medieval rogue might have looked down on the Münsterbasilika and smiled. On that day a careless lorry driver felled in a moment the City’s symbol of Civic law at its most public. A symbol that has stood for many years and held captive many criminals.

On 24 July 2007 Mayoress Bärbel Dieckmann unveiled the renovated ‘Bonner Pranger’, back in its former place of honour outside the main door to the Münsterbasilika. Some might argue that on the day she also became the first ‘victim’ for a ‘barracking’ from the public, since Bonn’s ‘Save the Metropol’ initiative took the unveiling as an opportunity to demonstrate it’s displeasure with the Council’s handling of the currently threatened Bonn Theatre.

People who were ‘pranged’ in the Middle Ages certainly had it much worse though. Petty thieves and the like would be chained by the neck to a brass ring on the Pranger’s pole and subjected to any abuse, oral and physical, that the passing Townsfolk might like to meter out. The time chained up though was usually only the start of their misery. It would lead to their being ostrasized by the entire community since being seen with such a person was to be considered as being like them. In short, it meant no further part in the community – and the community was vital at a time when barter was as important as money in the hand.

Proof that the Bonn Pranger is still used to this day

For the record, the Pranger is 2.70m high and made from Roman Sandstone with a trachyte (volcanic rock) base. The top ‘cannonball’ represents the ‘Citizen’s Law’ by which the offenders were tried. Records of the time show that paying for the parading of criminals was a matter of some contention. A list was even drawn up detailing charges for each form of torture carried out.

Some might wish that the brass ring was put back on the Pranger’s forbidding surface and it was again made ‘ready for action’.  For now though we will just have to chain people who annoy us to the post with our imaginations.

Who knows what the future might hold though – the Council wanted it put back after all! 

Popularity: 31% [?]

Marie Kahle – Her Story

Imagine you woke up in Bonn
one morning to hear that a shop in your street had been broken into and
ransacked..   What would you do?   Offer to help clean up?   Seems a natural reaction one would
think.

Marie Kahle did just that in
Kaiserstrasse.  Months later, fearing for
her life, she fled to England where she remained  with her family until her death.  A plaque in the Bonngasse ‘Walk of Fame’  is dedicated to her, as is a Street name.
Here is her moving story.

---

The year was 1938 and the Kahle family were highly respected, non-Jewish, residents in Bonn.
Professor Paul Kahle was a man of some influence and instrumental in developing Eastern Studies in
the curriculum at the University and had many influential friends worldwide. He was to need them when his
world began to fall apart.

On 10 November a Pogrom took place in Bonn
(as it did in many German Cities around this time). Jewish residencies were systematically ransacked
and their occupants beaten. Only days before, the Bonn Synagogue had been set ablaze  with firemen standing by only
to ensure that the flames did not spread to nearby houses. Marie Kahle’s children had tried to warn
local shopkeeper Emilie Goldstein (22 Kaiserstrasse) that the Nazis were on the
march but had not found her; half an hour later they returned to find the shop
door ripped open and the shop itself a shambles.

Site of the Goldstein Corsetry Shop (Kaiserstrasse 22) today.

Marie’s son, Wilhelm, spent most of the following day helping clear up.  It was forbidden by the Nazi authorities to enter Jewish shops but Marie had many Jewish friends and, to show moral support, she often visited them after dark. Whilst she was at Emilie Goldstein’s however the shop was also
visited by a policeman and both Marie and Wilhelm were reported to the local Right Wing Press. A week later the aptly named ‘Westdeutsche Beobachter’ (West German Observer) included the headline  A Traitor To The German People and the lives of Marie, Paul and their family
fell apart. The house was watched day and night. By day stones broke the
windows, by night thugs hammered at the front door. A caricature of Marie with hangmans noose was erected in the street and  ‘Here lives a Jew Loving Traitor’ painted on the pavement before her house. Compounding the danger was the fact that the Kahles also had an unregistered Jewish student staying at their house.  Marie herself fled to a nearby Convent; her husband (who also had a Polish Rabbi
Assistant) was forced to vacate his post at the University. Wilhelm was expelled from the University and could have fared worse had the Duty Policeman reported that he had not conclusively seen the boy cleaning up in the shop – which would have merited a much greater punishment.

Possibly the lowest point was reached when a former family friend, probably on Nazi Party orders, told Marie the only hope of saving her family lay in committing suicide. He ‘graciously’ even offered to provide the poison if throwing herself before a train was too traumatic! She was ‘requested’ to attend a hearing at the Nazi Headquarters and there possibly only escaped being tortured  through the intervention of a local, lowly paid policeman, two of whoms children had been clothed from head to foot through Marie’s local charity work.

Site of the Kahle House today

Due largely to the many internationally influential friends that Marie and particularly
Paul had, an escape to England was planned. Under the guise of a holiday, first Marie and later her husband and children, all fled to Holland and then on to England. The children arriving only hours before a new
rule forbidding all but Hitler Youth members travel outside Germany.

Marie herself never again returned to Bonn.
Suffering a long time from ill health, she died at only 55 years of age in 1948.
Her husband became an honorary Doctor at Oxford University and only returned to Germany at the request of his son Theo.  He died in Düsseldorf in 1963. John Kahle returned to Bonn in 1950.  William (Wilhelm), the eldest of the brothers, cared for Marie until her death and became a priest at Westminster Cathedral.  He died in 1993.  John Kahle became a ‘Post-War’ German as he himself said – “Charged with the task of rebuilding the world-view of the German people” The youngest brother, Ernest, also settled back in Germany after the War.  He studied Economics in Bonn and married here.

Marie Kahle published her story in England under the title ‘What would you have done?’ in 1945.

It took fifty years for the book to first appear in German language and even now it has only been sporadically re-published, last time in 1996 along with a chapter by her son John and a longer article by husband Paul detailing the rise of Nazism in Bonn
University up to his departure to England in 1939. The English version has long been out of print but if you see one in German it makes a fascinating (and rather
frightening) read.

Having found out what Marie Kahle endured after her and her sons act of kindness on that black day in November 1938 ask yourself, truly – would you have done?

Popularity: 37% [?]

Easter or Xmas?

May I be the first to wish all our readers a Happy Xmas! and a  Merry Easter!

This shelf in a local store here in Bonn seems a bit uncertain quite what time of year it is. 

Or perhaps the owner truly believes in the old saying that 'What goes around, comes around'?

Popularity: 20% [?]

Brothers in alms – Maria Laach

The announcement by a downstairs neighbour of an impending birthday celebration in her appartment was all I needed to set off in search of peace, solitude and good food.
If you too need a quiet corner to think about everything and nothing, join me on my short trip up the motorway to paradise…

{mosimage}

Maria Laach

I can’t confess to having ever ‘found’ religion, but if I ever did it would not be after a visit to St Peter’s, St Pauls or even (whisper it quietly in Bonn) Cologne Cathedral.  It would be in a tiny Abbey surrounded by glorious volcanic countryside  just up the A61.

The countryside

In between the Mosel Vineyards and the romantic Ahrtal sits Maria laach and its Benedictine Abbey.  The area is a visits worth in practically any weather – a glorious mix of tall beeches, Spruce and Ash trees alongside centuries old oaks.  Picturesque in Summer sunshine, dark and mysterious in Autumn, awe inspiring in thick winter snow. Take a walk around the lake’s circumference and watch for bubbling patches of water at the lakeside. Examine the basalt and pumice rock quarries created from 10.000 year old volcanic eruptions, or just enjoy the silence and stillness that for me is the most precious commodity the area has to offer.  A good mood is guaranteed for all, and even the most hardened of city dwellers will find him/herself wanting to say ‘hello’ to the friendly cows when they wander over to check-out the mornings first tourists.

{mosimage}

The Abbey and Monastery

Peace is indeed such a valuable commodity that many people are loathe to give it up.  The Monks at Maria Laach are an example.  One of 26 such monastries in Germany, they have their own community, complete with woodworkers and electricians.  My guide book tells me there are some 13000 Benedictine Monks worldwide and I counted some thirty or so brothers at the evening vespers before almost falling asleep to the sounds of their singing.  (this really is a place to relax).   The Abbey itself dates from 1093 and is too wonderful for words so I will just say ‘see for yourself’.  It has a good many visitors, but ultimately is still, clearly a place of work and worship (Ora et Labora!) for its Benedictine inhabitants.  Whilst  I must admit that having to stop work every four or five hours to come to prayer as the monks do would not keep the wheels of industry turning, I can’t help thinking they might be on to something.  Most of us have plenty of work to do, but how much time is left to reflect upon what we are doing?  No, I’m not fiercely religious, But Maria Laach Abbey does make me pause for thought when I don’t usually have the time (or can’t be bothered to make the time perhaps?) to do so.

Seehotel Maria laach

At under an hours drive from Bonn, Maria Laach  is easy to plan as a day out.  To really relax, or catch the 5.30 ‘Morgenhore’ (Morningsong) at the Abbey though you might want to stay overnight.  In days gone by monastries would offer a roof over your head and food for weary visitors.  They still offer these things today in fact, but  Sadly the Maria Laach Hotel is not free.  It is very comfortable though with a wonderful menu and friendly staff.  They cater for business seminars and for weary hikers with equal gusto, and whether you want top cuisine or just coffee and cake you wont be disappointed.  A tip here is to try any cake with apple in – the local apples are varied and delicious; and any dish with duck in – just try not to feel too guilty when you visit the lakeside ducks afterwards.  Diners seem to finish astonishingly early in Germany I find, and you are apt to find yourself alone in the restaurant after 9 pm.  The solution is to head for the nearest ‘Kneipe’ which, conveniently if you are already languidly relaxed with wine, is in the hotel – ‘Im Eichenkamp’.  The owner, Werner Bösch,  looks astonishingly like a good friend of mine in Portsmouth and treats me (and every other guest) as if he really was my friend.  My girlfriend remembers a business seminar that was rounded off in this very wine cellar until four in the morning – and the owner stayed awake to refill the peanut bowls throughout. Even my friend in Portsmouth would have been in bed by then I suspect.

This is very definitely a place to relax; to talk for hours about everything.  Lets invite the Iraqis and Iranis, the IRA and the British Government, George Bush and everyone else down to ‘Im Eichenkamp’ and get those problems sorted out over good wine and salted peanuts.  Let them all wake up with a clear head next morning for a walk round the lake and a prayer in the Abbey.  If world peace is possible anywhere, this is the place.

Internet: www.maria-laach.de
Hotel: www.maria-laach.de/seehotel

You can easily reach Maria Laach and its Abbey by car from Bonn.  Just take the Autobahn A61 to the turn-off ‘Mendig/Maria-Laach’  The Abbey is about 2km from the turn-off.  By public transport it is a little more difficult to get to:  A train to Andernach, followed by a bus ride is required:
Buses from Andernach (Breite Straße 98):
Monday to Friday: 07.58 – 13.18 – 17.33
Saturday: 08.33 – 12.33 – 16.33 Sunday & Holidays: 12.33 – 18.03

Please check these details are current before travelling.

Popularity: 27% [?]

Next Page »